southwestern France, let me emphatically say that it's not!
Walking the Camino is very hard. Every day the hiker has to deal with tired, sore feet, a sore back, a heavy backpack, staying at a
different place each night, bed bugs, finding stores closed, not finding things you need in a store when it's open, snoring in hostels, poorly marked trails (on occasion), getting lost, having the gîte all full when you arrive in an exhausted state, etc., etc.
I am not looking for your sympathy... I would gladly do this all again. Rather, I want to make sure that everyone knows that this is not a gourmand trip through France and Spain.
I also want to say that amidst all the inconveniences, the Camino has brought so much joy to my life. God has put together a marvelous collection of people, places, nature, and spiritual
opportunities… just for me! At times I have detested the walking, the hills, the rocks, the foot pain -- but the simple joys that I have taken from it more than make up for it.
On Monday morning (March 11), I left the rectory in Lectoure. It was already sprinkling, so I knew there would be problems. The goal for the day was La Romieu, a town noted for it's 13th century cloister and church. It would be an 11.8 mile day, which is very doable.
It wasn't that the rain was hard, it was just omnipresent. The rain
gets you wet on the outside and perspiration gets you wet on the
inside. So you are wet all over. It's also hard to stop for a break on these wet days, because then the perspiration makes you cold. So it's best to keep moving.
I was hiking with Christian and Margret from Germany. As I
mentioned before, we keep about the same pace.
It stopped raining about Noon and the sun came out. That helped matters greatly. What also helped was them offering me cookies and candy.
Whenever I see the sun I give thanks and praise to God. The spring sun feels especially therapeutic on the body.
Christian and Margaret have taught me the value of taking breaks... even taking a nap on the trail. Try it: it's a great thing!
Regarding cookies and candy, I stand on principle. I won't buy cookies or candy on the Camino de Santiago, but I also won't turn them down if offered. Maybe I get offered a good amount because people see me drooling over the sweets?
Anyway, we finally made it to La Romieu and decided to stay on a gîte next to a prune farm. One of the benefits was free prunes inside!
We took in this wonderful village. The gardens alone make this a
worthwhile stop. The church with its cloister were not as historic or beautiful as the one at Moissac, but it held its own.
We had dinner at a restaurant in town. My jacket was still damp, so I felt cold. How wonderful to see the fireplace in the dining room. It was perfect.
The next day (Tuesday) our goal was Larressingle, an excellent example of a fairly intact medieval walled city. Some have called it a smaller version of Carcassonne, without all the tourist traffic.
It rained all morning, making the 13-mile trek especially difficult.
Along the way I read small signs advertising various nearby gîtes. I would have loved to stop at them all, just to get warm, but onward we walked.
For rain gear I have a cover for my backpack (a good one) and a rain jacket (not so good). I'm praying for good weather.
It stopped raining in the early afternoon and God gave us the gift of some sunshine. We arrived at Larressingle around 3:30, just in time to check into the hotel. Christian and Margret got a hotel room, while I lodged in the less expensive dormitory area (there was no one else there). The hotel staff showed my room to another guy, but one look at my laundry soaking in the sink changed his mind.
We toured the walled city of Larressingle. People are allowed to live in the town and also in the wall, which must be a real treat.
The beauty of the church, was extraordinary. It was built in the Romanesque style, which is my favorite architecture for a church. There is such a noble simplicity about the Romanesque style.
In fact, I saw several architectural elements that I wish I had
incorporated in the church that was built in Clayton-Smithfield (St. Ann).
After touring the walled city, we went back to the hotel for supper. I chose a delightful salad with duck meat, followed by lasagna. Very good. The dessert was the traditional crème brûlée, which always puts a smile on my stomach.
Then it was back to the dormitory. There was a big gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. I filled it with a towel. Good thing, as there was no heat in the room, and it was cold outside.
