I left Pomps and headed southwest (just like every day). Since I really wanted to cross the Pyrenees Mountains on Good Friday, I decided that I had better step up the pace. Perhaps it was because I had seen God`s wonderful creation of the mountains that I had extra energy. So I decided to walk all the way to Sauvelade, an 18-mile journey.
I usually call for reservations beforehand, as it guarantees a place. There`s nothing worse than being denied a spot when you arrive hot and exhausted, and have to walk another five kilometers to the next gite. I tried to make a reservation at the gite next to the former abbey, but it was all full. They recommended a place in the surrounding countryside.
I walked a great distance (probably too much -- I always know that I have walked too far when I arrive at the gite after 5:00 pm) and arrived at the former Abbey of Sauvelade. I believe that there`s more former (closed) abbeys in France than active abbeys in the USA. The Abbey of Sauvelade was still impressive, even though several hundered years old. I assumed the gite at which I was staying would be very close. Wrong again! I was happy to see directional signs for my gite and fill my Camelbak with water.
Of course you had to bet that getting to the `Gite Nadette`would require a long uphill cimb. So I ascended and ascended... I really thought I was just about to touch the sky, the altitude was so high. After several turns and rest breaks, I finally arrived at the gite (it was all uphill) and was greeted by Nadette.
Nadette (Bernadette) was full of life, and had grown up in the area. She had pretty much restored the 200-year-old farmhouse in which she was living by her own two hands. It was a beautiful place, with the perfect balance of the old and the new.
I was the only pilgrim that night. I was happy about that, as it allowed me to have a private `tutorial`en francaise with the proprietor. This is a very economical way to have `full immersion`in the French language.
The afternoon sun was intense, so I did laundry and hung it on the line to dry. Nadette was preparing a grand dinner. She was adding pilgrim space on to her house, and had just added a pool. What a wonderful spot to relax after a long hike. The patio had a perfect view of the Pyrenees Mountains in the distance.
Dinner was delightful, full of healthy food.
The next morning I departed for Lichos. It would be a 16-mile trek, all told. Again, my body (the way it is) can probably best stand about 13-14 miles of walking per day. Anything extra `taxes`the system. However, I was trying to make the Pyrenees crossing by Good Friday.
The morning was rather uneventful, passing by hundreds (literally) of cows across many farms. Whenever I pass I am surprised how much the cows stare at me. I think that I would rather eat grass or hay than stare at myself!
I stopped in the town of Navarrenx for lunch and to check messages on the internet. As you can tell, `Navarrenx`doesn`t sound like a French word. It`s in the Béarn, which is a region of France with a proud heritage. In Navarrenx I ran into some people with whom I had been hiking before. That`s another great thing about the Camino: you make friends with fellow hikers quickly, as you have to help each other along the Camino.
The sun was hot and really beating down on me in the afternoon. I have pretty much determined that the morning is the time to walk (duh!). Being done by 1 or 2 o`clock is optimal. Also, I`m slow as a snail after eating lunch. Some would say that I`m slow as a snail even before lunch.
I finally crawled into Lichos about 4 o`clock. It was a tiny town (about 150 residents), but there was confusion where the gite was located. I even stopped to ask and the people didn`t kno. That`s frustrating.
I finally found it and was warmly received. The Gite Montalibet was run by two retired Parisians (husband and wife team), with a spotlessly clean gite. Again, I was the only one there that night, so I had this private apartment all to myself. The proprietors even stocked the mini-fridge with orange juice and cold water. I was in heaven.
At dinner I was served another gourmand meal, and had (what I call) a private tutorial in French (just regular table talk) for 90 mnutes. It was so much fun.
As I went back to the apartment for sleep, I thanked God for all the joy (and suffering) of the Camino. It has never been easy, but it has been so worthwhile. I also thanked God for all those who have supported me in their prayers, and all those who have welcomed me so warmly into their homes and gites.
Only God could have arranged all of this. I praise His glory and majesty.
