Astorga

The last couple of hiking days have started out unseasonably cold. Today when I left the albergue it was only 35°. I don't attribute this to global warming or cooling; just that sometimes it's cold in the mornings in May.

It being cold is really not a problem as long as it's sunny. If it were rainy that would be another problem. I have a jacket and the walking naturally warms my body.

While it does get warmer during the day, it's only been getting up to the upper 60s. I'm not complaining, as this is optimal hiking weather. It barely gets hot enough to perspire! I could not have asked for better weather during my pilgrimage.




This morning I was walking with Ruggiero (pictured above) from Trento (Northern Italy). We have spoken with each other on the Camino and in albergues the last week. He doesn't speak English, so we converse in Italian.

We spent the entire morning talking about Italian food. Other than conversations with God, it was the best talk that I've had on the Camino de Santiago! We concentrated on pasta sauces, and Italian food traditions in general. It was so much fun!

As you all know, even the most basic of grocery stores in the States sell a wide variety of pastas. Each pasta recipe calls for a specific type of pasta, which best suites the sauce or soup. Some sauces are thicker, some thinner. The required pasta will work best with the requisite sauce.

Somewhere there's a pasta "bible" with all this info written down! It's important to use the correct pasta with the correct sauce!

I don't hawk products on this blog, but I highly recommend this book by Diane Seed ("The Top 100 Pasta Sauces"):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0898152321/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/175-8123665-8309002

Also, salt is added to the water that will cook the pasta to: (1) help it reach a boil faster, and (2) salt the pasta a bit. Cheese is added to (and mixed with) the cooked pasta BEFORE adding the sauce. This allows the sauce to better stick to the pasta.

With the weakened US dollar and the strong Euro (as of today, 1€ = $1.41), "real" Parneggiano Reggiano cheese is expensive. Economizing is understandable, but it's hard to match the taste of the real thing!

Anyway, Ruggiero and I both shared our favorite pasta recipes and our love of food. My top three pasta recipes are:

1) Paglio et fieno alla Ciccora;
2) Spaghetti alla Carbonara;
3) Rigatoni alla Norcina;
4) Bucatini alla Matriciana.

(I know that I said "three", but how can you ONLY have three favorite pasta recipes?!

[If I ever become very sick, somehow get me on a plane so that I can have my last meal in Italy!



Because the Camino can be so rural, there are often long stretches with no small towns and therefore no places to take a break. That's why the pilgrim always has to plan ahead.

However today, there was an unplanned bar break. In the middle of nowhere, "David" (a former pilgrim) erected a mobile bar (pictured above).

It was an unexpected pleasure. He offered all sorts of fruit juices, tea, coffee, fruit, and cookies -- all at no charge. It was a free-will offering only. But mostly he offered wonderful spirituality.

He pointed to one pilgrim's heart and said that a pilgrim "Will start living the Camino when they realize that God is present first and foremost there (the heart), rather than in some distant place far away."

So true. But that's what's so great about the Camino… it's the unexpected things that make the biggest difference. And since every day is a new adventure, just about everything is unexpected!



This last photo is not atypical of the albergues. A lot of them have mileage (kilometrage?) signs that show how many kilometers remain until one reaches Santiago. This one (at Albergue San Javier in Astorga) shows 254 km (158 miles) remaining. I hope it's correct, as my calculation has 266 km (165 miles) to go.

As for how far, no one really knows for sure. There are some optional routes and variants which muddy the picture. All I know it that it will feel great to arrive in Santiago de Compostela.

Today is Day 61 on the Camino de Santiago for me. I don't say this with distress, but rather with joy. I am thrilled that the good Lord has given me the strength to endure so much and continue on this pilgrimage path. I COULD NEVER have done this on my own. It is only with the grace of God that this has been accomplished.


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Corn Nuts

I know, a strange name for a blog post. But you'll soon understand why I chose that name.

Back in the early 1990s while I was a seminarian in Rome, I heard about corn nuts for the first time. I tried them and a love affair was born. In my opinion they're even better than corn or tortilla chips because they have a deeper "crunch". Before you dismiss me as a junque-food addict, know that I don't have them too often... because they're too darn hard to find! I know a place on I-95 north of Richmond that sells them, but other than that, they're surprisingly difficult to come across.

Well, I am happy to say that España loves corn nuts! You can find them in almost any convenience-type store. This has made me a happy hiker!

The last two hikes have been hard, so I treated myself to some corn nuts this afternoon. On Saturday I had to walk through the city of León. Walking through a city is doubly hard, as you have to watch for traffic, watch for the trail markers, and walk on hard concrete and asphalt surfaces. It really takes a toll on a hiker. After I had navigated myself through León (I got very lost, but fortunately was able to get directions from the pastry shops), I then had to walk 8 km (5 miles) through suburban concrete to get to the albergue. What a day!






This sign at a fix-it motorino shop in Mansilla de las Mulas reminded me of mopeds when I used to live in Rome.






This is a terrible photo of a magnificent cathedral in León, Spain. Although smaller than the cathedral in Burgos, it's more impressive. Both are masterpieces of gothic church architecture. I was just awestruck when I entered.






This photo was taken west of León. The Camino is seemingly endless!





This sign is found EVERYWHERE on the Camino. It is saying that this a private hunting reserve. Luckily, I wear a bright orange jacket so I can avoid being shot!





This is the bunk bed scene in the albergue. Usually people are packed in like sardines. I really struggle when I'm given the top bunk!




Here are the vanities…





Toilet and shower…





Common area…





Laundry area N° 1…




Laundry area N° 2





The street scene outside the Albergue San Miguel in the town of Hospital de Orbigo.





Entrance to the Albergue San Miguel in Hospital de Orbigo.





The Spaniards love their tile... so do I !


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The Meseta

The Meseta. Ask anyone who has walked the Camino about "The Meseta" and you'll get a variety of responses. You'll hear some groans and some cheers.

The Meseta is a high central plateau in Spain, and comprises a good chunk of the land mass in the country. As a plateau it is fairly flat.



[This is exactly what the Meseta looks like.]

The Meseta serves as the breadbasket for Spain, as mostly wheat is grown on it. So you walk past thousands and thousands of acres of wheat.

Aa for the Meseta and the Camino, It basically stretches from Burgos in the east to León in the west. So I entered the Meseta on Saturday, May 7, when I left Burgos, and will exit the Meseta on Satirday, May 14, when I enter León.

Those who detest the Meseta will say that it's long and boring, and has uninterrupted stretches where there are no towns and no water. Just today I walked a 13 km (8 mile) stretch that had nothing but road dust in between. I thought it was going to last forever. Near the end I was asking God to have His angels transport me to the next town. I couldn't believe that the next town wasn't just around the corner. Two women passed me and I asked, "The town is in any minute now, right?". They responded by saying that it was at least an hour away. Oh those long stretches are tough!

Those who enjoy the Meseta will say that it's easy to walk in as it's flat as a pancake. They'll also say that you don't have to worry about taking breaks -- you just walk. That means that you can concentrate on other things, like prayer or problem-solving, etc., because you don't have to think about the Camino.

Well, the Meseta isn't going anywhere. I personally found it boring, as there was no variety. It was kind of like driving through Nebraska or Kansas (with all due rrspect to those august states). But it also had few hills to climb, so that made the walking easier.



[Every road sign in the region of "Castilla y León" is marked as such.]




[God's marvelous recreation of another glorious day!]

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The Routine of the Camino

It is true that everyone walks his/her own Camino. The experience is different for everyone. You walk at your own rhythm, setting your own schedule. I have seen fast and slow hikers, and everything in-between. The Camino is what you make of it.




The timing is different as well. Some like to rise before dawn and hit the trail, getting to their destinations as quickly as possible. Some like to cling to their sleeping bags until the last possible moment, when the guest-master of the albergue asks them to leave (usually by 8 am).

When I started this Camino I thought that most everyone would be in fantastic shape (I certainly wasn't). Well, I was wrong again. The ones who are in good shape are making the Camino on bicycle -- that method seems to draw the better athletes.

Which brings up a point. I have done my share of bicycling, that's for sure. But on the Camino when there's a steep hill to be climbed, there's not a bicycle to be found. But they magically re-appear after the hill or mountain has passed.

I have found that bicyclists on the Camino avoid the steep ascents, by taking detours around the hills. They might log more miles but they certainly don't seem to be getting the aerobic workout that they need!

Most people on the Camino are just ordinary folks -- people who were called to do this pilgrimage as they were. Some don't even prepare by walking before they start the Camino. One woman told me that her only preparation for the Camino was walking from her home to the train station on the day she flew to start the Camino!

There are some diversions that keep the walkers going. Every day the pilgrim passes through, on average, two or three little towns. Usually these towns offer a bar, which is very different from the American version. These bars offer all sorts of drinks, as well as a limited variety of food. So for the small town denizen (and the pilgrim), these bars function as a combination coffee-shop, mini-diner and meeting place.




Most prefer the bars and the breaks to hiking the Camino. After all, the walking IS the hard part of this pilgrimage!

A staple at the bars is the tortilla. It's not the Latin American version, but rather a pie-shaped food made of potatoes and eggs. A slice of it is perfect for the pilgrim, as it provides a lot of protein and energy (at least that's what I'm thinking!).

Some stop at every bar possible, and others avoid them like the plague, seeing them as a waste of time and money. I stop frequently at these bars to rest my feet, have a bite to eat and a glass of water, and dry out my sweaty socks. It's also a chance to socialize with other pilgrims, to find out what tips they have on the upcoming albergues (e.g., us it clean? Do the showers have hot water?, etc.).




The pilgrim chooses how far they will walk on any given day. There are albergues scattered all over the Camino, usually in the bigger towns, so a long or a short stage is possible.

Since distance is up to the individual, some walk 30-35 km per day (19-22 miles). Some prefer 16 km (10 miles). I myself find about 20 km (12.5 miles) just about right. Of course to finish when I want, I'm going to have to average about 24.5 km (15 miles) each day to finish. Please pray that my feet don't swell up, because that can happen when I walk too much.




What gives me so much hope I that there are so many ordinary people making the Camino. I think to myself, "If they can do it, so can I". I am not the fastest walker on the Camino, nor on the best shape. But with the grace of God I continue each day.

Who makes the Camino de Santiago?

Sorry, but I don't have the answer for the title to this blog. All I can say is that there is no single type of person who makes the Camino. It's a very diverse crowd.


So far I have met people from Canada, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Poland, Hungary, Slovenia, Japan, Germany, Switzerland, India, The Netherlands, Belgium, England, Ireland, Scotland, Italy, South Africa, Spain, Portugal, Brazil, Mexico, Austria, France, Lithuania, South Korea, The Philippines, Australia, and the United States of America.




I have asked people why they are making the Camino. Now some may answer differently if you don't know them well rather than if you did.




Also, most are not on this pilgrimage for reasons that I would consider directly spiritual. Indirectly, yes, but not directly.



I haven't met anyone yet who has told me that he or she is making this pilgrimage for penitential reasons (i.e. that they are making this a sacrifice so that God would hopefully forgive their sins). This differs dramatically from medieval times, when making this pilgrimage was done primarily for that reason. It could be too that no one wants to admit this!




One reason that a good number of people use is that they're at a crossroads in life. They yearn to start a new stage in their life, or perhaps a new career. Maybe it's just doing what they've already been doing in a fresher, more life-giving way.



Crossroads offer challenges and opportunities. If we find ourselves at a crossroads then we should make he most of it. Don' fear it or avoid it: accept it and deal with it.




There have been numerous times on the Camino where I've found myself at a fork in the road, and didn't know which way was the correct path. I used my logic, then I took my best guess. If I didn't see a trail sign soon I knew I was going in the wrong direction. Sometimes the trail sign (the confirmation) didn't come for a half-mile (forever for a hiker). If the new trail isn't working we head back and follow the correct path. But we have to give it a chance and not just dismiss it.




God never calls us to a boring routine, or the "Same-old, same-old". Rather he calls us to live with zeal and joy, using this precious gift of life that He has given us to the full.

Many are looking for guidance from the Camino… that walking the Camino will give them the answers that they've been seeking. Some are frustrated that the answers don't come right away. Well, think of it this way. When you're a child, do you know that you're growing? It's the same on the Camino. Everyone is growing, though we don't know how.




Some make the Camino to have an adventure. That's a good reason, as we all need one. Without an adventure we fall into ruts, where we think it's comfortable, but in fact we're not going anywhere.

A few make the Camino multiple times, looking for an answer that seems to evade them.




So, there is no ONE reason that people use to make the Camino de Santiago, but there are many individual ones.

Please pray for the hikers. They have shown great courage in venturing out, to find a new relationship with God and others.


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50 Days (but who's counting?)

Hi everybody,

I just finished Day 50 on the Camino. I am really happy to have this day behind me, as it was a hard day.

First of all, some stats for the 50th day:

Days on Camino: 50
Miles walked (approx.): 680
Miles to go (approx.): 320
Days taken off (sickness, pain): 5
Avg. miles walked per day: 13.6

So there you have it.







A little chapel on the outskirts of Santo Domingo de Calzada at sunrise.







Another beautiful recreation of another day by God!







The sign announcing that we have entered the province of Castilla y León.







A very important reminder to every pilgrim at the albergue. It translates, "The tourist demands, the pilgrim thanks."








Most people with whom I'm walking started at St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Some are blown away that I've walked almost 1,100 km. I did meet someone today who started in Le Puy-en-Velay on April 2nd (two and a half weeks after I did), but we won't talk about that!






So often I see people passing me on the Camino. I substantiate it all by saying that I'm the slowest walker on the Camino de Santiago. But we all walk our own Caminos at our own rhythm.


















































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The Rioja

I'm in the Rioja (pronounced: ri-OH-ha), which is serious wine country in Spain. It's akin to walking through the Napa Valley in California. The region comes complete with thousands of vines and a good number of wineries.

Instead of seeing cows and sheep grazing, one sees vines taking form. There are no grapes yet, but come the early fall there will be plenty. Of course, the grapes closest to the Camino will be snatched by the pilgrims.






I don't pretend to know much about wine. True story: a number of years ago I was in a gourmet market that sold wine. A friend of mine and I had pained looks on our faces in searching for a bottle of wine for a friend. A clerk came by and gave us great advice. He said, "Gentlemen, all you need to know about wine is the following: if you like the wine, it's good wine; if you don't, it's bad wine!" How comforting!

Each region in Spain is different, like the States. I am just learning about the regions, and have a lot to learn.









The region of the Rioja is much dryer (almost like desert). I think that's necessary to produce a good vintage.







Look closely at the following photo. What do you see? That's right, an entire chain link fence with wood crosses stuffed into it. The fence ran about a quarter-mile long, bordering the highway.




There are a lot more flat areas on the Camino in Spain that in France. You can walk without ascents or descents for miles. It's very unlike the Camino in France.






One thing about passing through town-after-town, is forgetting where you stayed last night. This is compounded by knowing that you can only stay at an albergue one night. When pilgrims ask each other, "Where did you come from today?", often you get just a blank look! It's not that the towns look the same -- it's just that pilgrims often don't have time to get to know the town.